‘Winterising’ Your Static Caravan? Here’s What You Need To Know

If you own a modern, centrally heated home on a holiday park, the most important winter job is to leave your heating running on a low, frost-protection setting, and to keep air moving through the home.

Get that right, and you’ve covered off the thing most likely to cause a problem. Many of our parks stay open through the colder months too, so ‘winterising’ doesn’t have to mean locking the door and disappearing – you can pop in to check on things whenever you like or even book a winter break.

Key takeaways

The most important thing is leaving your heating on a low setting all winter to protect your pipes.

• Many guides on ‘how to winterise a static caravan’ talk about draining down pipework, blowing compressed air through your plumbing and packing everything away. That advice is written for homes that are switched off and left empty for the winter.
• Many Lovat Parks stay open through winter, so you can visit to check on your holiday home, or even make a break of it.
• Our teams keep a regular eye on sites, including flagging anything like pest activity, so you’re not managing everything alone from a distance.

If you do one thing: Keep the heating on low

This is the step that makes the difference. Set your central heating to a low, thermostatically controlled temperature and leave it running throughout winter, even while you’re not there. It doesn’t need to be warm enough to sit comfortably in – just enough to stop the inside of your home, and the pipework within it, from ever reaching freezing point.

Forgetting to do this is the most common cause of burst pipes over winter.

Two practical points follow. Your heating needs power, so leave the electricity (and gas, if your system uses it) connected – as ABI’s owner winterisation guide points out, a combi boiler’s frost protection only works while the boiler stays connected to both. And leave the sealed central heating system itself well alone: it holds its own antifreeze and should never be drained down.

NI Water education officer Anna Killen advises owners to use “the frost setting on your heating system” and to consider having it serviced, as well as making sure exposed pipework is insulated and that your insurance covers weather damage.

Protecting against damp (and the odd unwelcome visitor)

Prioritising ventilation also makes a difference to how the holiday home will feel when you return to it. Modern units are built to withstand the elements, but if you’ve left damp clothing out to dry or heavy blankets or towels lying around, which can pick up a musty scent or feel, this won’t help the property over winter.

Stand cushions on their edge rather than leaving them flat, and leave internal doors ajar so air can move through the space. If you know you won’t be back for several months, it’s also worth standing any mattresses on their edge for the same reason. Make sure nothing’s blocking your air vents either.

As for pests – it’s possible for mice to find their way into an unoccupied holiday home, as it is with any building, but it’s not something to lose sleep over. Our teams keep a general eye on sites throughout winter and know what to look out for. It’s still sensible to take any food and perishables home with you and give surfaces a quick clean before you go, simply to avoid giving anything a reason to move in.

Do you need to fully ‘drain down’ a static caravan?

It depends on how your home will be used over winter. For a holiday home that’s going to be switched off and left empty, the answer is yes: manufacturers such as ABI and Willerby both recommend draining down the fresh water system, ideally by a qualified professional. That’s why most guides online focus on draining every tap, cistern and pipe before you leave.

A home that’s being kept warm is in a different position. On a managed park like ours, where many homes are kept heated and our teams keep an eye on things through the winter, the everyday priority is keeping the heating on low so the inside never gets cold enough to freeze. If you’re planning to leave your home unheated and unvisited for a long stretch, though, follow your manufacturer’s drain-down guidance and talk it through with your park team first.

Whichever applies to you, one rule is the same for everyone: the sealed central heating system should never be drained.

Looking after the outside of your caravan

The exterior deserves a bit of attention, too. Check seals and gutters for leaks or blockages. Although you can rest assured that on managed lots like the Lovat sites, we will have many watchful eyes doing the same checks over winter. 

Bring in or secure any loose outdoor items that could be damaged or blown around, and clear away leaves and debris that have built up around the base of your caravan.

If you’re on a pitch, make sure drainage around your unit is clear and unobstructed. A light coat of grease on exposed metal fittings helps prevent rust setting in over the colder, wetter months – and, easily forgotten in a rush to leave, make sure every door and window is properly locked.

You’re never really on your own over winter

Many of our parks stay open through the colder months, so if you fancy checking in on your holiday home yourself, you’re welcome to – no need to wait until spring to see how it’s doing. Some owners take it a step further and book a proper winter break there instead, making the most of quieter parks and cosy nights in. Need inspiration? Our guide to cosy UK winter getaways is a good place to start.

Our teams are on-site and keep an eye on things too, so you’re not solely relying on your own visits to catch anything that needs attention. It’s still worth letting your park office know if you have any specific instructions, or if you’ll be away for an extended stretch. And it’s always worth double-checking your insurance policy’s winter requirements – what’s expected can vary by provider, and some do ask for specific precautions to be in place.

Static caravan winterisation checklist

• Leave your heating on a low, frost-protection setting
• Make sure electricity (and gas, if applicable) stays connected to power it
• Don’t leave anything overly damp in the caravan (wet clothes, swimming gear)
• Leave internal doors ajar
• Check air vents aren’t blocked
• Take food and perishables home with you
• Check seals and gutters
• Secure loose outdoor items and clear debris
• Grease exposed metal fittings
• Lock all doors and windows
• Let your park team know of any specific instructions
• Check your insurance policy’s winter requirements

Not yet bought a static caravan to call your own? Explore holiday homes.

FAQs: how to winterise a static caravan

Can you live in a static caravan in winter?

Most standard holiday licences don’t permit full-time, year-round living in a static caravan, and many parks close or restrict access for part of the winter regardless. If you’re using your caravan for holidays through the colder months rather than living in it, keeping it heated and ventilated (rather than fully winterised) is the better approach – check your specific park’s licence terms for what’s permitted. Read more: Can you live in a holiday lodge all year round?

Do static caravans get damp in the winter?

They can, and it’s one of the most common winter problems owners face. Damp typically comes from poor ventilation and moisture with nowhere to escape, rather than from the cold itself – which is why airflow through the interiors and not leaving damp or damp-prone items lying around or covering beds or sofas is important.

How do you stop damp in a static caravan in the winter?

If you are going to be away from the property for a while you can consider leaving all internal doors and cupboards ajar, standing mattresses and cushions up rather than flat, while also making sure air vents aren’t blocked. Some owners also use moisture-absorbing products such as bowls of salt or silica gel sachets (a tip Willerby recommends), and a low-level background heat is advised.

Do you need to drain the central heating on a static caravan?

No, and it’s important that you don’t. Unlike your fresh water plumbing, the central heating is a sealed system that holds its own water-and-antifreeze mix, and both ABI and Willerby are clear it should be left alone. Draining it upsets the antifreeze balance and can damage the system. ABI recommends having the antifreeze level checked by a qualified engineer rather than topping the system up with fresh water yourself, which dilutes it.

What is the average lifespan of a static caravan?

This varies by quality and maintenance. Entry-level models are often estimated at around 15–25 years of usable life, mid-range caravans from established manufacturers commonly reach 25–40 years, and well-maintained, higher-end units can exceed 40 years. Proper winterisation, regular damp checks and general upkeep all play a real role in getting toward the longer end of that range.

You might also like…

• Still new to the world of mobile home ownership? Here’s a simple starter guide to static caravans.
• What’s it like to own a static caravan by the sea?
• What’s the difference between static and mobile caravan holidays?
• Planning a winter stay at your holiday home? Try our cosy UK winter getaways.